Dolomites for kids: A Living Storybook
5 summertime Activities for Kids on a dolomite Family Vacation
Alpi di Siusi-Siusi- Castelrotto-Ortisei
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The Dolomites is a fantastic place to visit with kids. The Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm in German), the biggest mountain plateau in all of Europe. People are awestruck by its formidable peaks and splendid meadows. To boot, the locals have a created fabled world in the treetops and forests for children, alive with legends and echoes of kings and queens, witches and gnomes.
There are spots in surrounding towns, Siusi, Castelrotto, and Ortisei, and of course the high plateau of the Alpe di Siusi itself, where you almost think you’ll catch a glimpse of the tail of the fabled Dragon Sisi as you wind down the trails or catch a whiff of the witch’s brew deep in the forest. This area, already magical, comes to life for bambini as only a sort of living mountain fable could.
Bosco delle Streghe- The Witches’ Forest- Dolomites for kids
Location: On the Alpe di Siusi near the Tirler Hutte
Altitude: 1.700 – 1.800 m
Arrival: A 20-minute, stroller friendly walk from Saltria, Bus to Saltria from Cable Car in Compatch or start at Wild O’ William’s (see below) and hike down
Time allotted: ½ day
In the Bosco delle Streghe or Witches’ Forest, you will find tree houses, climbing ropes, and wooden swings between the trees. Sensory experiences are abundant on this didactic trail designed for kids. Legend has it that the witches who inhabit the forest and brew the mightiest storms. A hot spring of “medicinal” water pours straight into this witch territory and activities lead towards or down from the stream, depending on which way you enter. You can either after a hike down the Trail 9- which connects to Willem’s Hut (see below) or from Saltria.
This area is one of the loveliest spots on the Seiser Alm as it lies at the confluence of two streams. Kids can play by the spring and then explore the witches’ spellbinding paths and structures, swings, and bridges. Families can follow the Nix tour by purchasing a 3 euro map from the tourist office and punch a hole in their bracelet each time they pass a witch’s station. If the witches haven’t brewed one of their famous tempests, enjoy the sunshine and dip your feet in the rivers. Playtime doesn’t end at the end of the witches forest as the Tirler hotel and rifugio has a fantastic play structure. Families can lounge on the grass or enjoy a satisfying mountain bite at Tirler, or even choose to spend the night.
Fill your water bottles with fresh, filtered mountain stream water outside the refugio, grab a coffee or ice cream at Tirler before taking the 20 minute walk back to the bus stop in Saltria.
Santa Cristina-PainaRaida Adventure Trail- Dolomites for kids
Location: Val Gardena- Santa Cristina Monte Pana- Parking Lot
Altitude: 1680 meters
Time Allotted: 2-3 hours
Difficulty: Easy- Gentle 50 meter ascent
Food/Lodging: Not along the trail, but near the Parking lot at Mt. Pana Dolomite hotel, yes.
This fantastic adventure trail, elected the best spot for children and families in the Dolomites recent years, begins at Monte Pana. You can then take the ring shaped path in either direction. There are play structures in the fields and along the trail as the family around a gentle 3-hour ring and includes a stop at an Alpine Lake. The play structures are sturdy and designed to recall the magic of the fables of the forest with its red and white mushrooms to climb, wooden horses to ride, treehouses to explore, canals to dip one’s feet in, a labyrinth to wander into. Adults can enjoy the pine scents meandering trail, sit in a comfy wooden recliner by the lake and take in views of the massive Sasso Lungo. Of course, in South Tirol fashion, a hearty plate of Speck and Eggs and Potatoes or Canderli dumplings in broth, among other Tirolian dishes can be enjoyed at the rifugio near the trail head at the Monte Pana Dolomites Hotel.
Wild O’ William’ Playground and Restaurant- Dolomites for kids
Location: On the Alpe di Siusi- above Saltria
Altitude: 2100 meters
Time: 2 hours, make it part of a greater hike including the Bosco delle Streghe (Witches’ Forest) if you wish
Difficulty: It’s very easy to arrive by gondola or ski lift from Saltria
Otherwise, it’s roughly a 2 hour steep hike up from Saltria or Tirler
Food: Casual and rustic with a creative touch
Children can climb on the play structure or swing on the giant swing or zip across the field on the zip line. You will still be catching your breath from the stunning view of the Sasso Piatto Dolomite peaks behind them. Wild O’William’s is run by a friendly and savvy couple who provide creative mountain “elixirs” and even offer locally hunted game on their menu. Try a lavender spritz (non-alcoholic options available) or craft beer before your meal. Proceed down the trail towards the Bosco delle Streghe past the stunning Zalligner hut (also a great spot to stop for food) and catch a glimpse of the herds of golden horses that graze in the pastures.
From Compatch- take the bus to Saltria. There is a ticket machine and it stops right outside the gondola station- Enjoy the 10 minute busride through the valley. Get off and take the Florian lift (you can buy tickets when you arrive) and go up to Willem’s hut or, Wild O’ William’s https://www.wildowilliams.it/en
Marinzen Playground, Mini-farm and Rifugio- Dolomites for kids
The Alpe di Marinzen is located almost directly above the village of Castelrotto, at the foot of Monte Bullaccia. In summer it attracts many hikers and families, while in winter it is an important ski hub. From the town of Castelrotto, take the chair lift straight up to Marinzen for a morning of play followed by lunch at the rustic rifugio. More ambitious travelers can hike in from the various trails that start in Siusi or Castelrotto (Trails 4a, 9 or 11 & 12).
Baby goats wander freely through the grass and playground, adding an extra element of fun for the kids. Check out the bright blue fireflies that hover over the small pond.
After lunch: Either explore the wooded trails behind Marinzen or head back to the valley. Skip the chairlift and hike down the winding forest trail then through the farmlands to Castelrotto, officially elected as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.
Altitude: 2,176 m
Time: 3 hours
Difficulty: Easy chairlift ride (I recommend strapping babies or small toddlers on the front of you with baby carrier)
Food/Lodging: Good standard mountain fare, speck, canederli, cheese plates, skiwasser, etc.)
Playground, mini farm, and small lake
Horseback Riding- Unterlanzin
These family-run horse stables offer the possibility to wander through the lush meadows and fields and up through the woods on horseback. The horses, Haflinger and Quarter mix, are well-trained and calm, and the guides are trustworthy and friendly. Children as young as six can ride horses while younger children can ride ponies next to the stables. One-on-one lessons are also available. The grounds are beautiful, the backdrop of the Schlern peaks is phenomenal, and the restaurant is cozy. This is a great activity for before lunch or in the later afternoon. Excursions usually run in groups and take about 1.5 to 2 hours, though longer private excursions are available upon request.
Osvald von Wolkenstein trail-the Sciliar-Catinaccio Nature Park
Location: Siusi- Start at Valley station Alpe di Siusi cable car
Altitude: 1.004 m to 1.210 m
Time allotted: It’s about a 5 Kilometer hike 2-3 hours
Families can explore the 15 stations dedicated to the Medieval Royal family of the area, specifically King Osvaldo, which was completely restored in 2021. The didactic forest trail is designed to spark the imagination and educate visitors about the Middle Ages in the area. These include a forest throne and royal dining table, ruins of a castle, and the legend of the local dragon, Sisi. Wander along the rushing stream and hike up to Salego Castle ruins that children can climb freely on and onwards to the Castlevecchio ruins. A stop at Bad Ratzes Hotel for a coffee or skiwasser (refreshing raspberry soda) or a meander through their magnificent meadow at the base of the Schlern is recommended.
Col de Flam Adventure Park and Santa Anna trail & Rifugio
Older children gear up in helmets and harnesses before climbing through the tree tops and enjoying ziplines and mini-via-ferrata-style challenges at this adventure park. Younger children can join for the first part of the adventure course as long as they are accompanied by a parent. The Santa Anna nature path leads you to the Santa Anna Rifugio above. It can take 30-60 minutes depending on how fast you travel on foot with the little ones and depending how often you want to stop to enjoy the journey. The path itself is full of streams and places to pause and play and soak in the natural surroundings. At the rifugio-restaurant, distinguished by its welcoming red awnings, there is a sensory park that can entertain kids for hours. The lunch is kid friendly and the beers are adult friendly: it’s a perfect place to pause and relax for everyone.
https://www.coldeflam.it/index_en.php
Note: My sons, Luca and Donnie, have been both coming to the Dolomites since they were babies. We have gotten lost and missed buses and been caught in hailstorms, but we gradually figured out how to make the trip run smoothly, and now we have it down. Now, going back to our favorite spots is a summertime ritual. Each year, the landscape changes slightly, renovations are made, friends or family join us.
Interested in planning a trip? Aurora Adventures Italy designs custom itineraries for independent travelers. auroraadventuresitaly.com
Farther Afield:
- Bear Park Movimënt and Piz la Ila park in Val Badia
- Kurpark in Villabassa
- Croda Rossa family park in Moso
- Olperl Park and playground in Sexten
- Parco del Gigante (on Mount Baranci in San Candido),
- Parco degli Gnomi (Dobbiaco)
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